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Monday, January 28, 2008

Thailand Trip - 2008

A people focused dynasty ruled over generations. A kingdom that has avoided the British colonization successfully. An Asian kingdom where tradition and culture have been guarded over generations and at the same time, have taken giant steps to built a long-lasting infrastructure that fuels the economy. A country that has immense gold and natural resources. Yes we are talking about Thailand. As part of the Club Mahindra membership, we had received 2 international weeks thru the RCI tie-up. We finalized our plan to visit Thailand 2.5 months back. The flight bookings and information collection went well and finally the day, rather night, arrived. Atharva and Tanvi were excited. We took a cab that picked us from home and dropped us to the airport. Our Cathay Pacific flight was at 5 am, so, we had planned to reach early and check-in the luggage so that we all got a good 2+ hrs sleep at the airport lounge. After a good nap and delicious breakfast on the flight, we landed at Suvarnabhumi International airport in Bangkok at 11 Am. We had opted for the visa-on-arrival option (1000 Baht aka BHT per person; 1BHT = 1.28 Rs), Atharva and Tanvi, being US citizens no visa was needed for them.
Day 1- (20 January, 2008)
We figured out right from day one, that, in Bangkok tourism industry is extremely commercialized. Local people quote any price for foreigners (especially the white skin ones) and one has to negotiate and arrive at an agreeable price for anything and everything you want. We took the taxi from the public taxi terminal point and paid 400BHT to the hotel but other taxis were quoting 800-1200 BHT. Our hotel – The Grand Tower Inn - was a 25-storey building located at the northern tip of Bangkok on Rama VI Road. I wish the rooms had a microwave, however, they provided only a hot water electric pot. Except for 2 bottles of drinking water/day, everything else is exorbitantly charged in the hotels. Eg. Intl phone call to India was more than 150 BHT/min whereas outside phone cards were ranging from 10-26 BHT/min. Also the exchange rates in the hotel for 1$ was 31 BHT whereas outside we got 32.8 BHT for a dollar. We had our first lunch at a hotel right next door to the hotel. It was a challenge to explain to the local chef that we were vegetarian and finally we ended up showing him all the things he can/cannot put in the customized fried rice that we ordered. The Tom Yup soup was good and Atharva is a big fan of mushrooms. Thai Papaya Salad was another tasty discovery. This one has grated raw papaya that has a unique sour taste.
The hotel has a RCI member's corner and we got some good information and advice from the RCI helpdesk Ms. Noora. Bangkok has big weekend markets and we were located close to the Chatuchak weekend flea market.This flea market is really really big and I mean it. We took a local autorickshaw (called as Tuk-Tuk in Thai) and reached the place at 5pm. The market closes at 6:30 pm and it was overcrowded. Narrow lanes lined with all kinds of wares, clothes, jewelery, art and craft, zillions of eating joints, this market was indeed a vibrant experience. I purchased a RayBan goggle since my previous one was absconding since the last few days.




This one I purchased for 100 BHT after finding that the exact same piece was priced for 200 BHT in most of the other shops. The evening was hot and steamy and we enjoyed cold watermelon and lichee smoothies.

After this we took another Tuk-Tuk to reach a super departmental store called Big-C market. This place was a big departmental and grocery chain store. We purchased all essential groceries and had dinner at a Pizza shop since this was the only vegetarian option we could find at this location.

We reached back at the hotel and had a good first night's sleep.


Day 2- (21 January, 2008)
RCI organizes a free city tour for all guests at this hotel. Our guide was a very polite person – Mr. Meng who took us to our first destination for the day – Wat Traimit near the main Railway Station of Bangkok. This is a unique temple built of Italian marble. The marble lions outside the temple symbolized as guards that protect the Golden Buddha inside the temple. This temple houses the biggest Buddha statue in meditation (nirvana) position and made of pure gold weighing 5 tons. By tradition, the thread in the hand of the Buddha is extended to outside the temple so that all devotees can touch it and pray for the calmness and peace that Buddha symbolized.

Then we were taken to see the temple of standing Buddha, Wat Intharawihan. The local thai people also worship an incarnation of God Vishnu over here. Also, there are 4 postures of the Buddha monk that Thai people offer lotus flowers, incense sticks and gold paper for - There are different representations of the Lord Buddha. He is sitting, standing, walking or reclining. 1) Sitting Buddha: a) Teaching dharma (the essential function or nature of a thing). Buddha's hands are turning the Dharma wheel (left hand in lap, right hand gesturing).b) Stop fighting (left hand in lap, right palm raised). c) Meditating (both hands in lap, palms up, and right hand on top). 2) Standing Buddha: a) Stopping a flood (both palms raised). b) Calling for rain (both arms down at the sides, palms against thighs). c) Meditating (both hands in lap, palms against the body, and right hand on top). d) Giving alms holding a bowl with rice or other food. 3) Walking Buddha: Walking around in order to teach the Dharma (left hand raised). 4) Reclining Buddha: The Lord Buddha has reached Nirvana. He is sleeping and waiting for death.

Meng actually showed us the quality of the pure gold by poking his finger in one of these golden statues and the gold was very ductile.
We then stopped shortly at the Government's first ISO-9002 certified Gems and Jewelery Shop and Museum where all the precious stones were carved by skilled craftsmen to make bracelets, pendants , earrings and rings. Then we were shown the Museum of Jade where the clipping on the 2 varieties of Jade and their history was very interesting. We ended up purchasing a Jade pendant and they provided a certificate for the same from the Govt. of Thailand.

The last stop in our free tour was Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon– the temple of the Reclining Buddha.

This is very giant statue of the Buddha which is ~80 metres long. Outside this temple were statues of Ching dynasty warriors from China. Also the surrounding buildings were various Chedi's displaying exquisite Thai architecture, including Spires of Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajkarn.
We then requested to be dropped off near the Tha Tien Pier market place (on the Chao Praya River that flows right thru Bangkok), where we had another negotiated vegetarian lunch, followed by sweet coconut water (called Singha in Thai) and then went to see the No.1 religious attraction of Thailand – The Grand Palace.
Built in 1782 by King Rama I, when he shifted from the other side of the Chao Praya River (where we have Wat Arun), this palatial complex has several buildings that showcase the rich traditions, gods and other religious characters of Thai Dynasties from King Rama I thru the present King Rama IX. This includes a marvellous golden Chedi, a miniature Angkor Wat and the Royal Pantheon in which statues of past sovereigns of the ruling Chakri dynasty are enshrined. Scattered around the terrace are statues of elephants and mythical beings.





The other unique thing was the floor to ceiling murals that adorn the interior walls of the various buildings. These murals depict the story of the Ramayana where the Rama of Ayotthaya (this is the previous capital of Thailand located about 100 km north of Bangkok) waged a war to rescue his wife Sita, who was abducted by Thotsakan (Ravana), king of Longka. The murals depict many wars waged betn the various kin of Ravana and Rama's army.
After this follows the Phra Maha Monthian Group of Buildings which had the residence of KingRama I, II and III. Towards the end is the building built during the Chakri dynasty reign of King Rama V in 1882.


Finally the last stop in the palace was The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha – enshrined on a golden traditional Thai-style throne made of gilded-carved wood. (taking photos inside was not allowed, so I clicked one from the outside). The sacred image is clad with one of the three seasonal costumes (summer, rainy and winter season). The costumes are changed thrice every year in a ceremony presided by over by His Majesty the King.
The Emerald Buddha was in fact carved out of a block of green jade and was first discovered in 1434 in a stupa in Chiang Rai. At that time the image was covered in plaster and later discovered to have the green stone beneath and was mistaken to be emerald, hence the name Emerald Buddha.
Another character that is prominently seen in Thai history is the Garuda or Eagle that is displayed on most of the Royal and Govt. buildings. After an exhaustive tour we took a Tuk-Tuk and reached the PhyaThai district at the BTS Sky-train station. Here we had dinner and then boarded a sky-train to get down at the Ari station near our hotel. This is a better option especially during the peak traffic hours in Bangkok where one gets stranded wherever u go betn 5-8 pm on weekdays.
Day 3 - (22 January, 2008)
This was a day dedicated to Safari World – a primary attraction for kids. The Orangutan show was spectacular where we witnessed a Boxing fight followed by a grand musical band presented by about 12 orangutans. We then entered an aviary that hosted colorful parrots by the hundreds. A few stopped for a while on Dipti's head and one parrot liked the Cognizant symbol on my cap and tried to peck at it.



Tanvi was so overjoyed to see so many birds near here and her smiling face said it all. This was followed by a gallery of various birds, lizards etc.
Then was the time for the Sea Lion Show where 3 sea lions enthralled the wide audience with their high jumps, dancing and many tricks. This was followed by another stunt show that involved use of many pyrotechnics. Kesari Tours had also organized a tour over here and we met a few folks from Pune too. Lunch was served in a big buffet room that had various buffet menus including Indian Vegetarian. We also relished some good Ceasarian Salad and Thai Dessert of Jelly Noodles in sugar syrup, topped up by delicious Thai fruits – guava, pineapple, papaya etc.



The last show was the Dolphin and Whale show. The big Beluga whales were a treat to watch and the trainers have done a splendid job at communicating with these giant fish.
Meng then took us in our van to the adjacent Jungle Safari ride where we saw openly roaming wild animals that included Indian deer, American antelopes, wild beasts, Australian fowl, Rhinos, Giraffes, Zebra, Camels, Pelicans, Flamingoes, Peacocks. Finally we entered an enclosed area where we came face to face with a family of lions and tigers that were freely playing with each other as we calmly watched them from the interiors of our van. It was a unique experience which one may not get to see even in the National Parks where u can watch not one or two but an entire family of lions or tigers that are unbonded and close to nature from a close angle. The last point before our exit, we saw a few black bears gazing lazily at us and one bear that was having a swim to avoid the afternoon heat.
We reached back at the hotel by 5:30, freshened up and again went to see Chinatown. We dared to have lunch at a Chinese eating joint where all the waiters were Thai girls that played with Tanvi. The taxi driver became our friend and he agreed to take us to Ayuthaya at a much cheaper price than the RCI tours, so we booked him for Thursday.
Day 4 - (23 January, 2008)
The Indian tailor at the Hotel's shop also helped us by arranging for a day long taxi to see the Damnoen Sadauk Flaoting market about 110 km to the SouthWest of Bangkok. The river bridge on the expressway and adjacent high-rise buildings were a fitting example of the blending of modern architecture.



The Floating Market boat ride was another unique experience where we shopped on the canal side shops as well as other boats that were selling various merchandise and fruits. One thing over here that reminded us of Pune was traffic jams. We are used to the traffic jams in Pune, not that Bangkok is any different, but to be party to a floating market boat traffic jam was funny experience.

We then went to see the Samphran Elephant and Crocodile Zoo. The Magic show, the Elephant Show and Crocodile show were all enthralling. Tanvi offered a few Cheerios (cereal) to an elephant who gladly embraced her and me with his big trunk.




The kids had fun in the play area after the shows and also enjoyed the feeding of the caged Bengal Tigers at the entrance of the Zoo.
On our way back we stopped at Phahurat – an Indian market place where we packed Indian (Punjabi) dinner that was spicy and we all enjoyed it at the hotel.
Day 5 - (24 January, 2008)
Our new found friend – Taxi Driver – Wichian arrived at our hotel half an hour before and was waiting for us. We started for Ayutthaya at 7:00 pm. Ayutthaya was one of the previous capitals of Thailand couple of hundred years back. The big expressways built all around Bangkok as well as as the many universities and industrial areas along the way signify the development of this nation. The first place to visit was Wat Yai, which houses a large and old Chedi surrounded by Buddha statues, at least 50+. The main temple in front of the Chedi has a big Buddha statue and was home to a big buddhist monastery. In the compound are also old Stupa's built before the Chakri dynasty.



We then went to see the Wihan Phramongkhon Bophit which has a very large bronze cast statue of Buddha just outside the Grand Palace to the east. The Grand Palace, a UNESCO world heritage site, houses the ruins of the Ayutthaya Period (15 thru 17th century) that have many Chedi's and stupas.




We then had lunch at an authentic Thai restaurant – Vegetable Green Curry with rice.
After returning back to Bangkok we stopped at the Royal Barges Museum which has the richly decorated boats used by the royal family for the processions in the Chao Praya River. Our final vist was at The Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun – which paradoxically looks magnificent at sunset. The towering prang with its four smaller siblings was started by Rama II in the early part of the 19th century, and completed by his successor Rama III. The prang is not only unique in its design, which is a blend of Khmer and Thai styles, but also in decoration. Over the brick core, a layer of plaster was applied and then decorated with bits of Chinese porcelain and glazed ceramic tiles. Like the bell shaped chedi, the central Prang represents Mount Meru, home of the gods. The four smaller prangs symbolize the four winds. High up on the four smaller towers, you can see a statue of Pai, god of the winds, on his horse.




The steps to the upper 2 and 3 levels of the central prang were drastically steep and we had a big problem while climbing down. Both kids started crying looking down. I had to bring down Tanvi first, then climb up again and bring Atharva, boy, what an exercise this was.
After this we returned back and packed dinner on our way to the hotel.
It cost us only 1500 BHT for the Ayuttaya tour whereas, we would have paid 1200 BHT per person had we booked thru RCI. I would recommend hiring a day taxi for visiting places near Bangkok for 1-day trips as compared to costly RCI/other package tours.
Day6- (25 January, 2008)
It was Friday and we left our hotel pretty early by 6:30am. Today's plan was to visit Pattaya and the Coral Island – Koh Lorn. After collecting various members from other hotels we finally reached Pattaya at 9:30 am. Our tour guide who was also very kind and helpful, helped me with exchanging currency before we embarked on our boat ride to Coral Island.



On the way, we stopped on a platform where Manisha and Dipti enjoyed a para sailing ride while I gladly shot them on video. The skyline as well as the shallow turquoise green waters made a perfect background for photo shoots. The sky was clear and the sea breeze was pleasant.
After we reached the Island, Dipti embarked on a separate tour which took her on a boat to descend down to see corals on foot underneath the waters by cladding a oxygen mask. It was an enriching experience to feed coral water fish by hand and see the rich colors of the corals and surrounding fish.


We (myself, Manisha and the kids) embarked on a submarine ride. This was also a one-of-a-kind tour where we descended to about 30m below the sea. As we descended gradually we saw a variety of fish with amazing colors that gradually made way to only black color fish since the spectrum of light gets absorbed as u go deeper below the waters. A Scuba diver had accompanied us on this tour and he was on the outside of the submarine, he was catching some rare poisonous fish and showing them by hand to us from outside the submarine windows. We were thrilled with this experience. Back to the main island by 12:30, we were served a fantastic full-course vegetarian lunch of soup, fried rice and several vegetarian dishes, appetizers followed by watermelon for dessert.


We then clad our swimming costumes and ventured into the shallow green waters. Both kids enjoyed playing in the water and jumping as the waves hit the shores. Our journey back to the hotel gave a first hand experience of the traffic jams, we reached the city by 6pm and evetually our hotel by 8pm. Yes, 2 hours on the Bangkok roads inching towards the hotel.
Day 7 – (26 January, 2008)


The final day had arrived, we had done our final packing and we checked-out early and kept our luggage in the lobby. We then took a “tuk-tuk” to see the Vimanmek Mansion – the world's largest golden teakwood mansion. Along the way we also caught a glimpse of Thailand's democracy monument in a big square.

This is very big building that has 62 rooms in all. We took a tour that showed us 31 of these rooms. They have different colors for different areas of the mansion depending on the area assigned to each member of the royal family. The crystal and glassware on display has been primarily received as gifts from other kings and governments of Europe. It has many pedestals and giant elephant ivory tusks located in one-third of the rooms. This tour gives a glimpse of the unimaginable wealth and luxury that the royal family has achieved over the generations and the rich tradition and taste upheld and passed on from generation to generation. (taking photos inside was prohibited).
Our final stop was for delicious fried rice on a nearby gourmet alley and we then reached back at the hotel. Wichian was smiling and waiting for us for the final drop-off to the airport for 300BHT.
Bangkok Intl Airport is another modern day architectural marvel I must say with its well laid out plan having wide variety of shops, exchange booths, restaurants and information kiosks and telephone/Internet terminals.
Our final journey on the Cathay Pacific flight was thru turbulent wind currents and tea/coffee was not served due to this, however the meal was very good.
As we disembarked at Sahar airport, I could see the stark difference in the airport infrastructure and up-keep. I am sure that Mumbai/Pune definitely needs an international class airport. Even the renewed domestic airport at SantaCruz is way better than Sahar. I hope that Maharashtra's leaders do something about this soon. If we are to reach the stature of Shanghai city, then an international airport infrastructure with at least 4 terminals and about 40+ gates is the first necessity. Mr.Sharad Pawar, pls read this and do something about it.
A final stop for delicious Wada-pav at the food mall on the expressway and we finally hit home at midnight. A different way to enjoy the republic day holiday.

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8 Comments:

  • Wonderful account of the trip. Seems like there was not a single dull moment in those 7 days.

    By Blogger Shaunak Bapat, At January 30, 2008 at 10:01 AM  

  • very nice account. we visited bangkok, pattaya, a show at nangnuk village,a dance show at pattaya where the dancers were beauties and sensuous in 1995. the first thing they told us was that never to critisize the king, you will be put in jail first for five yrs and will be asked why after that.
    did you notice that inspite of their culture pattaya is rampant with child prostitutes? pattaya beaches are out of this world and waters are warm and comfy.
    i found bangkok safari as one of the best in the world. the only problem was at that time all the jokes were in local lingo and flew over our heads.
    the workmanship in jewellary is exquisite and i thought why we could not reach these standards.
    thailand in number one today for medical tourism sply cosmetic surgery.
    felt naustalgic reading the account thanks
    nandini paranjape

    By Blogger mihirparanjape@gmail.com, At February 2, 2008 at 5:13 AM  

  • forgot to mention that the photos are bautiful. atharva and tanvi look very happy. tanvi is really bold to feed the elephant. children get scared at her age to do that.
    nandini paranjape

    By Blogger mihirparanjape@gmail.com, At February 3, 2008 at 5:26 AM  

  • Hey Kedar,
    Very Beutifully put down in words and pictures. Every reader would feel as if they are also on their journey through Thailand and stimulates them to visit in reality these beautiful places.. Very Happy to see Atharva & Tanvi enjoying their delightful moments !!
    -Anant, Sonali & Apurva.

    By Anonymous Anonymous, At February 4, 2008 at 7:16 AM  

  • hey Kedar,
    Good job man! What a wonderful description and pics! I almost had a vitual tour of Thailand.. now looking forward to a real one.. donno when though :(

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